Peru is not your average vacation. It is a country that demands something of you — your patience on its winding mountain roads, your lungs at 11,000 feet above sea level, your courage at the edge of ancient ruins. I traveled with three friends — two Leos and a Virgo — and what followed was equal parts bucket-list magic, unexpected detours, and the kind of laughter you only get when something goes beautifully, wonderfully wrong.
This series tells the full story: from the near-missed flight in Lima to the broken ankle that was absolutely worth it. Our road to Cusco started with……
The 3 AM Wake-Up Call
It started at 2:15 AM.
Our 5 AM flight meant leaving the hotel by 3. Simple. Clear. Non-negotiable.
Except for two people, who completely slept through it.
I called their room.
I called their phones.
Nothing.
So yes, I walked upstairs and knocked like I was TSA.
A very confused “what?” opened the door.
Ten minutes later, we were in the lobby.
Mishap #1.
We made the flight by pure luck and a driver who clearly treats Lima roads like a racetrack at that hour. And for context, Lima traffic is bad all the time. Not rush hour bad. Always bad.
Travel Note: Lima does not care about your itinerary. Add buffer time or be prepared to miss your flight.
Landing in Cusco: Coca Leaves & Reality Check
We landed in Cusco at 7:30 AM and were immediately greeted with… coca leaves. Yes, those coca leaves. The same plant is tied to cocaine. Also, the same plant locals have used for centuries to deal with altitude sickness. So now we’re standing in an airport, half asleep, holding leaves, trying to figure out if we’re supposed to chew them or just pose for a photo.
Welcome to Cusco!
Cusco sits at 11,152 feet above sea level, and your body feels it immediately. Everyone in the group prepared properly. Iron-rich foods. Hydration. Coca tea. Me? I had a prescription from my doctor… that I never filled.
Stay consistent, Nathalie.
We checked into the JW Marriott El Convento Cusco, which delivered exactly what we needed. Warm, calm, and coca tea was ready the second we walked in.
Then we dropped our luggage and headed straight to the Sacred Valley with nothing but backpacks. Yes, I convinced three grown women to pack light for Machu Picchu. Still one of my better decisions.
The Sacred Valley: Where It Starts to Feel Real
The Sacred Valley stretches about 37 miles through the Andes and was the agricultural backbone of the Inca Empire.
This is where Peru shifts from “trip” to experience. Our first stop was a llama farm in Chinchero. Let’s be honest. Before this trip, I couldn’t confidently tell you the difference between a llama and an alpaca. At one point, I was confidently saying “a-la-paca” like I knew what I was doing. I learned quickly.
One of my travel companions got a little too comfortable. The llama disagreed. She walked away… not dry. There is video evidence.
Pro tip: Llamas are cute. They are not friendly. Respect the space.
Maras Salt Mines: Beauty You Don’t Expect
Then came the Maras Salt Mines. Thousands of salt pools carved into the mountainside, each one a slightly different shade of white, cream, and soft pink. The Incas started this. Local families still maintain it today. It’s one of those places that doesn’t feel real until you’re standing in it.
Getting there is another story. Unpaved roads. Tight turns. Constant movement. If you track steps or floors, congratulations. You hit your goal before lunch.
Moray: The Inca Laboratory
Moray makes you stop.
Massive circular terraces drop into the earth like something engineered, not discovered. At about 11,480 feet, this site is believed to have been an Inca agricultural testing lab. Different levels created different temperatures, allowing crops to be tested in controlled environments.
The largest ring drops nearly 100 feet. And despite the rain in this region, it never floods. That alone should tell you how advanced the Incas were. You can look at pictures all day. It doesn’t compare to standing there.
The Stay We Didn’t Book (But Considered)
At some point, we passed the Skylodge Adventure Suites, transparent capsules hanging off the side of a mountain. Price point? Around $450 a night. Access? You climb. We did not stay there. But we looked. And we seriously considered it for about two minutes.
Ollantaytambo: The Checkpoint Before Machu Picchu
By now, altitude was starting to win. One of the Leos was down. The Virgo was feeling it. And me? I skipped altitude sickness and went straight to car sickness. Make it make sense.
Ollantaytambo sits lower at 9,160 feet, which helps. The ruins themselves are manageable, but the views at the top are worth every step. We climbed..We paused..We laughed. That part matters more than people admit. From there, we headed to the train station.
What You Actually Need to Know
- Pack light. Aguas Calientes has no cars. You will walk everywhere.
- Respect altitude. Cusco is not the place to “wing it.” Prepare or suffer.
- Build buffer time. Especially in Lima.
- Stay flexible. Because something will go wrong. Always.
Machu Picchu is next. Cusco, Peru: The Train, The Town & The Climb
If Peru is on your list and you want it done right, not rushed, not chaotic, and not missing the details that actually matter, we plan trips like this every day.
Customized itineraries. Group experiences. Real guidance so you’re not figuring it out at 11,000 feet.
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